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Edward J. Mills Ex-Champion Dry Fly Caster on the Stream 



HOW TO FISH ™ DRY FLY 

DESCRIBING THE LATEST UP-TO-DATE NECESSARY 

TACKLE, ITS COST, AND WHERE TO GET IT 

AND THE PROPER METHOD OF USING IT. 

A DESCRIPTION OF THE AMERICAN 

AND ENGLISH DRY FLIES 

ALSO 

HOW TO FISH VARIOUS NYMPHS 

FROM THE BOTTOM UPWARDS IN PLACE OF 

WORMS IF TROUT DO NOT RESPOND TO FLIES 

EARLY IN THE SEASON OR 

DURING THE LATE 

SUMMER 

By 

LOUIS 
RHEAD 

AUTHOR OF 

TROUT STREAM INSECTS :: BOOK OF FISH AND FISHING 
FISHERMAN'S LURES AND GAME FISH FOOD 



PRIVATELY PRINTED AND ISSUED BY 

LOUIS RHEAD, 217 OCEAN AVENUE, BROOKLYN, N. Y., U.S.A. 




0Af 



CONTENTS 

How TO Fish Dry Fly 5 

Dry Fly Tackle 8 

The Rod 8 

Some "Don'ts" Regarding Rods 8 

The Reel 9 

The Line 10 

Points on the Care of Line 11 

The Leader 12 

Points on Care of Leaders 12 

The Dry Fly Itself 13 

Fly Attachment to Leader 14 

Flies Most Suitable for Surface Fishing 14 

What Fly Shall We Choose ? 14 

Dry Fly Methods — Casting 15 

Casting Up Stream and Across 16 

Fishing the Rising Trout 17 

Fishing Where Trout Are Not Rising 18 

Cross Currents — Line Dragging 18 

Dry and Wet Fishing Compared 19 

How TO Fish the Nymph 21 

Bottom Lures for Trout 27 



Copyright, 192 1, by Louis Rhead 



JAN 14 1921 

©C1A606876 



HOW TO FISH DRY FLY 




A7 MIO • A icy. M2. 

Hoiv to Fish Dry Flies that Imitate American Trout Stream Insects 

The Floating Fly is More Widely Known 

The dry fly has made rapid strides in the estimation of 
American trout fishermen during the last ten years, so that 
the new art is now widely known all over the continent, 
although it is not, as yet, practiced to any great extent, 
for the reason that method and special tools have not been 
fully described in a simple manner. I believe every thought- 
ful trout angler wants to acquire the latest and best up-to- 
date Information about dry fly fishing so that he may learn 
to test his skill in this most satisfying branch in the art 
of angling. 

The object of this little booklet Is to give a detailed, 
easily understood definition of the dry fly In compact form 
as a handy guide, to describe exclusively how the art may 
be practised on American streams with dry flies copied 
from native insects without any reference whatever to 
methods used on British streams; this field has been' so well 
covered, not only by eminent English writers, Halford and 
others, but also by two expert American anglers, Emlyn 
M. Gill and George M. L. La Branche, who have described 
their views with great detail and compared the difference 
in the method pursued In England, as w^ell as by themselves 
on our own streams. If It is the readers' desire to go fur- 
ther, and study the art more thoroughly from the British 
standpoint, they should get Halford's books from England, 
and read "Practical Dry Fly Fishing," by Emlyn M. Gill, 

5 



"The Dry Fly and Fast Water," by George M. L. La Branche, 
both will be found valuable to the angler In showing the 
adaptability of the dry-fly method to American streams. 
Both books are published by Charles Scribner's Sons, New 
York. However, to be just with my readers, it Is only 
right they should know that these two books were issued 
in 1914, two years before any classified list of Amer- 
ican trout Insects had been made, or my book on American 
trout stream insects had been published. So that their 
books exclusively refer to their use of English type dry flies. 
On page 41, In "Practical Dry Fly Fishing," the author 
says: "Whether English dry flies tied to resemble English 
Insects, Imitate exactly in all points similar insects common 
to American streams is a mooted question." This mooted 
question has been settled by the writer who has proved that 
English dry flies do not resemble In size, color, or form 
any of the American trout stream insects. Some English 
insects are similar to American, but there is always a differ- 
ence In size or color of the artificial flies. 

The strictly consistent rule laid down both by American 
and British dry fly experts is, whatever dry fly is used, It 
must exactly Imitate the species of Insect that trout are then 
taking as food, or at least the Insects visible at the time 
on the water. If the reader has studied the "charts" in 
Trout Stream Insects, he will, to a certain extent, know at 
any time what kind of Insects are likely to be rising by the 
period, temperature and time of day. The writer has prac- 
tised dry fly fishing more or less for twenty-five years past, 
but not exclusively — his views being too broad to entirely 
ignore the great advantages of wet fishing, or even live bait 
and artificial lures on American streams. 

There is no question whatever that the English dry fly 
will seduce American trout, especially Fontlnalis, fario and 
irridius, but the same can be said of the old wet style 
favorites, and the new style nature flies. It is left entirely 
to the angler's judgment whether he prefers to fish with 
English dry flies that do not imitate our insects, or remains 
loyal to the old American favorites which do not imitate 



Insects, although now tied as floating flies for dry fly fishing, 
or, that he prefers to make a trial of those new nature flies 
tied expressly from careful pictures of living American 
insects. All three of these classes of flies are sold by Wm. 
Mills & Son, Park Place, New York City. 



DRY FLY TACKLE-THE ROD 

Casting the Fly is so Extremely Delicate 

The method of fishing with dry flies is so extremely deli- 
cate, artistic and precise, that it is almost compulsory to 
use the special tools now made for it. These special tools 
— rod, reel, line and leader are somewhat more expensive 
than what is used for wet fishing, yet, if reasonable care is 
bestowed on them, they will last so much longer as to be 
cheapest in the end. 

When you buy a new rod, have it made to fit yourself. 
The length and weight all depends upon a man's physical 
power and build. Generally speaking, the short man re- 
quires a three to four ounce, eight and a half foot rod. 
Medium size man fits to a four ounce, nine foot rod. The 
large, heavy man caji use — if so desired — a heavier weight, 
but anglers, big and little, buy their rods no longer than 
nine feet, four and a half to five and a half in weight. You 
cannot cast the dry fly accurately, or far, or properly handle 
a heavy fish with a very limber rod along with a heavy 
weight line. 

It is conceded by many experts that Leonard rods are 
unapproached for dry fly fishing. They have no com- 
petitors in lightness, strength, or flexibility, and regular pat- 
terns of any weight or length are made suitable for both 
dry and wet fishing. If the amateur buys a Leonard, he 
should order the mountings oxidized and an additional agate 
guide in place of bottom guide on the butt of rod, and also 
agate guides on the two tips which greatly facilitates cast- 
ing. The price of these rods is about fifty dollars. 

Some "Don'ts" Regarding Rods 

Never lay your expensive rod on the ground while ex- 
changing leader or flies; if you don't step on it, an obliging 
companion will. Place the rod upright against bush or tree. 

Always keep joints well oiled at end of season; if they 
stick, pull out without twisting. 



Don't keep one tip idle till the other is worn 
out; interchange them frequently. Keep both 
working. 

Take rod apart as soon as you quit fishing. 
Also take reel off for easy carrying. 

Go through heavy bushes with tip in front, 
especially if leader and fly are in use. 

Release a hooked snag with line, not rod. 

Never lend or borrow favorite rods. If tip 
is injured send it to mender at once. 

When climbing a fence or other obstruction 
give rod precedence. 

Dry Fly Tackle — The Reel 

In dry fly fishing the right kind of reel is of the 
utmost importance. The main points to con- 
sider are : Its weight should properly balance 
your rod; the barrel should have room and to 
spare for a dry fly tapered line. The click 
should be firm, and the reel should fit on the seat 
snug and tight yet be easily released. It should 
be constantly oiled, kept perfectly Iclean, and 
handle screws thoroughly tight. A very service- 
able reel is the Leonard patent trout reel, made 
in the raised pillar style, light, strong and of 
ample line capacity — much lighter in weight than 
the larger reels made in the old round plate style. 
It is sold by Wm. Mills, price $13.00. They 
sell another more expensive reel, specially made, 
and called the dry fly reel. Price $22.00. 



Fig. 1. Rig 
for shallow 
water. 



f 



Fig. 2. Cast 
fly just above 
large fish. 



Fig. 3. Rig 

for deep water. 

9 



DRY FLY TACKLE-THE LINE 

There Is no part of dry fly tackle so necessary to be per- 
fect as the line; you depend entirely upon its perfect work 
to force the fly through the air and alight on the water 
like thistledown. Your line must be extremely flexible, yet 
of a weight in the thicker part that will carry well in the 
cast, though light enough at the taper to float and not drag 
the leader under water. The best lines are soft dressed, 
waterproof, that run freely through the guides. It must 
be tapered at both ends, from four to ten feet. A really 
beautiful line feels like velvet; it should never crease or 
get sticky; whatever the atmospheric conditions may be, it 
must not twist or kink and should be an olive or light brown 
tint, with a smooth dull polish. These requirements are 
necessary, because in dry fly casting the line is continually 
running back or forth through the guides much more than 
in wet fishing. 

American experts and some writers advise the exclusive 
use of English made lines, the best of which are sold in this 
country by any good tackle dealer. The price runs from 
eight to twelve dollars, and even higher. 

A very high-grade soft finish dry fly line is 
Mills' double tapered "Intrinsic," prices from 
$7.00 to $8.50. Sizes are G, F, E, D, the heaviest 
being D. The English lines are designated by 
letters D, E, F, the latter being heavier and larger 
in size. It is therefore essential to 
have line weight fit to weight of rod 

— a light rod to a light weight line — 

-y^ — ^ heavy rod — heavy line. The heavy 

N/VATER KNOT ^ J J J 

line is the best suited for short cast- 
ing. It will be best for the beginner 
to understand the choice of both line 
and rod is personal to the angler's 
build and strength of arm. The 
tapered dry fly line can be used for 

10 





wet fishing; indeed, the old style flat line should be entirely 
discarded for any kind of fly casting. 

Points on the Care of Line 

The first thing is to have your line wound on the reel 
as evenly as possible and see to it being unwound as far 
as the line has been wetted and carefully dried every time 
you quit fishing. Don't rub on deer fat or other grease 
to a new line to make it float better. After considerable 
use, day after day, the line becomes somewhat waterlogged, 
and deer fat does make it float better, but several English 
experts have lately stated that deer or other animal fat is 
injurious — which coincides with my own experience. They 
suggest some chemical called "Mucilin," which does not 
injure the dressing — yet it floats the line — also the fly. I be- 
lieve the best way is to hang the line in the sun and wind 
to thoroughly dry it. Mucilin is sold in tins by Wm. Mills 
& Son. 

If the line is in use a good deal it is wise to alternate 
the use of both ends. If the hook is fouled on rock or 
stump make every effort to save line breakage; far better 
to break at leader, because the tapered end is made so fine 
as to be about the thickness of attached leader; even a few 
inches of lost line is a great disadvantage and for that 
reason the tie to leader must be made to easily untie. With 
reasonable care the life of a good line is prolonged. When 
the end of the line loses its covering of dressing by frequent 
tying, don't cut an inch or two away, making it a less effec- 
tive line; you can remedy the trouble by using a small brush 
and revarnish it with valspar. 



11 



DRY FLY TACKLE-THE LEADER 

Dry fly leaders should have a gradual taper from thick 
to fine, and made of extra long-length gut, furnished with 
one small loop at line end, the other thin end being left 
unlooped to be tied with a knot to eyed fly. The weight 
of gut depends on weight of line and rod — either light, 
medium, or heavy. The length of leader should measure 
from tip to middle of rod handle grasp so that you can hold 
the fly with same hand that grasps the rod. Good tapered 
leaders cost about sixty cents, superfine leaders made of 
special gut will cost a little more. Preparatory to fishing, 
a number of leaders should be placed in a box carefully 
coiled, between damp felt, so that when used the leader 
will fly out straight at the first cast, and the damp gut makes 
a more secure tie to the fly. 

Points on Care of Leaders 

Dry your leaders after the day's fishing is done — they 
weaken if kept constantly wet. If leader breaks don't loop 
them together; learn to tie a secure knot, and tie it only 
when the gut is thoroughly wet. Don't loop gut to fly — 
learn the proper knot attachment here illustrated. 

Test your leaders. Discard, or retie any frays or weak 
parts. For dry fly casting it pays to buy new leaders every 
season. Beware of leaders which taper too fine if the fish 
you capture are likely to weigh over a pound, especially in 
turbulent water. 

I have found it to be much more convenient to buy gut 
by the different size hanks, and tie my own leaders. In so 
doing the angler suits his own requirements, exactly as to 
length and thickness, as well as a saving of considerable 
expense, and will be found of especial advantage by all 
anglers living far from up-to-date tackle shops. 



12 



THE DRY FLY ITSELF 

The reader will now perceive that fine, delicate dry fly 
casting requires the angler to be fitted with a properly 
balanced rod that is flexible, light, yet strong, a free run- 
ning reel of proper weight, a line that tapers down to 
thickness of leader, and leader that tapers fine to the 
fly to make it speed through the air without obstruction, 
then drop gently on the water as near as possible like 
that of the natural insect. I consider it a waste of the 
reader's time to give details of who invented the dry fly, 
or a list of so-called experts who have practised and written 
down their opinions of what are the best dry or wet flies to 
most surely seduce trout. Indeed, such a situation seems 
to be comical in the extreme to quote the various opinions 
(both domestic and foreign) of what fly is best, for the 
very reason that the most experienced angler on earth is 
unable to tell In advance of arrival at the stream — what 
insect is on the wing, any more than he can foretell if it will 
rain tomorrow. When certain species of insects do rise to 
float down along the surface in vast or small numbers, then 
It is that trout are attracted and visibly feed. If we are 
consistent In our belief of the dry fly method, it is then 
only we can surely tell which dry or wet fly is best. 

It Is sheer buncombe for experts to give a list of their 
favorites. All flies are favorites to trout at their period of 
rising. The reason I capture more trout on the shad fly, 
cowdung, yellow sally and brown drake, Is because their rise 
extends through April, May and June, while some others 
rise but a few days. 

For the benefit of the amateur who never cast a fly, 
and the wet angler who honestly seeks to rightly know just 
what difterence there is between a wet and dry fly, my 
answer Is, the artificial dry fly has the upward wings split 
open — mostly curving outwards — often having wing feathers 
doubled to make them stiff and float better. The hackle is 
tied more bushy, partly pushed forward beyond the hook- 
eye. 

13 



Fly Attachment to Leader 

All the best dry flies are made on eyed hooks — none are 
made with a snell lashed to hook. Flies fastened to leaders 
by a loop is fatal to a feathery cast, so that it is absolutely 
necessary to learn how to properly attach gut-end to eyed 
hook with a neat, firm knot. 

Flies Most Suitable for Surface Fishing 

The two principal classes of natural insects are defined 
in my book, "Trout Stream Insects," as drakes and duns. 
Each have their wings in exactly opposite positions, the 
drakes have wings raised from, and erect above the shoul- 
ders, and after they have risen from the bed to the surface 
of the stream, they always float. The duns have wings 
hanging from, and below the shoulders. They do not rise 
to the surface and float, but the natural dun creeper travels 
along the bed to the river side then climbs upon rocks and 
vegetation, where they emerge into the perfect insect, alight- 
ing on any object but the water's surface. To be consistent, 
to follow nature, as all dry fly purists say you must, it is 
perfectly clear that drakes are the only insects we should 
imitate to use as dry flies, and the duns copied to fish wet. 
Nevertheless, if the angler so desires, with the aid of dry 
fly tools and methods, any fly, erect or lapwing, can be 
made to float long enough for trout to seize it with the aid 
of a dash of parafl&n by an angler of ordinary skill. 

What Fly Shall We Choose? 

When we arrive at the stream, the first problem to solve 
is what artificial fly to use; for the beginner this problem 
is the most difl&cult and requires time and study. First we 
look over the water, the runways, eddies, lines of bubbles 
to find out what insects are on the surface; the size, the 
color, if possible, what species of insect. If insects are flying 
in the air, capture one. Note the color of its upper and 
under tail, its shoulders, color of feet and wings; then pull 
from your box of flies the nearest imitations of it. I leave 

14 



entirely to the angler himself what his previous choice in 
the tackle shop should be, either of Halford's English flies, 
or Rhead's American nature flies. The charts in "Trout 
Stream Insects" give a list of the most abundant insects that 
appear for each month of the season. There are many 
other species not mentioned in the chart which are almost 
the same. Should you find no drakes or upwing insects float- 
ing on the surface and that a greater number of duns or 
lapwing insects are on the wing, you can fish dry with a 
dun fly like the natural insect you see, or fish the duns wet 
with^ two or more flies, till later on when you see drakes 
floating, then fish with dry fly imitations. The beginner 
at first has to be under the guidance of tackle shop advice, 
which is rarely good, with one notable exception, that is, 
Wm. Mills & Son, who have several members of the firm 
practical anglers of experience and talented fly tyers. 

It is quite difterent with the wet angler of experience. 
He is familiar with at least the old American favorites, 
and is well able to select a good stock of dry flies to start 
with in practising the newer method. 

Dry Fly Methods — Casting 

The principal theory of dry fly angling is simply that of 
delicately casting an artificial fly to the surface so that it 
will float along with wings erect, or "cocked," over a rising 
trout, or in places where trout are supposed to lie. As trout 
almost invariably choose to lie underneath swift water, 
generally a few feet below large rocks where the water flow 
is curbed, the rule is to cast up stream against the flow 
of water about three feet above the fish, permitting the fly 
to float without drag or ripple over the fish, to then lift the 
fly up from the water without wetting it. In a long, deep 
placid pool, trout lie with head up stream and they should 
always be fished up from tail end of pool. There is abso- 
lutely nothing for the expert wet fisherman to learn in cast- 
ing the dry fly if supplied with proper tools for it. It is 
merely a change of method. The first dift'erence is that 
the wet fisherman has two or more flies on the leader, the 

15 



dry angler has but one fly. The preliminary dry cast is 
performed by holding the rod upright, the right hand is 
moved slowly back and forth while the left hand continually 
draws more line from the reel and the fly is kept in the air 
till suflficient line is out for the fly to reach the desired place 
you wish to have it drop on the surface, which is usually a 
few feet above the rising trout, when a slight check to the 
line should be made. After a little practice you can keep 
a fly in the air indefinitely with twenty to forty feet of line 
out. You can move from one place to another with a gentle 
motion of rod top making the fly sail through the air. The 
rod movement must be slow and the tip descent for the fly 
to alight slower still. The tip must be made to point 
exactly to a couple of feet above the desired spot and careful 
calculations made as to the distance which after some prac- 
tice becomes remarkably correct, even to a few inches. 
Accuracy is the most important, that is, to place the fly per- 
fectly, so that it floats exactly over the fish, a difl^cult feat 
that only comes by considerable practice. Safer casting is 
more possible if you are wading, without back impediments. 
Naturally, the fly goes as far back as it does in front, so 
that must always be carefully considered. 

Casting Up Stream and Across 

In deep swift rivers, where it is impossible to wade 
against the heavy flow, or deep water prevents wading in 
the stream, you should cautiously approach the tail of a 
rising trout, which always lies with head up stream. Cast 
up and across for the fly to float down till you see it begins 
to sink. Gather in surplus line to enable you to lift the fly 
clear off the surface back in the air, then, with a waving 
motion back and forth several times to dry the fly, cast 
again. Or, if you prefer, make a few steps forward to 
cast. You will cast more accurately, cock the fly better, and 
keep it dry by making short casts of twenty or thirty feet. 
A long cast across heavy currents, is sure to cause the fly 
to sink. 

16 



Fishing the Rising Trout 

^ Trout rise spasmodically, being induced to rise by peri- 
odic gluts of floating insects, most frequently in greater 
abundance along eddies and runways. Under these run- 
ways trout invariably lie in selected places of their own, 
one after another in a long line, the larger fish being where 
greater numbers of insects pass over them. I have seen a 
line of from twenty to fifty large trout all rising to a glut 
of insects; at such a time the wet angler fails, while the 
dry angler with the correct imitation will capture one after 
another in quick succession, by choosing a situation where 
he can easily cast to the larger fish. Should it happen the 
first choice of fly is not taken, try the same on another fish, 
time being precious to change flies. If trout still refuse a 
fly that properly floats, then put on a smaller fly. Don't 
drive them from feeding with too frequent or careless casts. 
Keep below them, cast short and light; allow the fly to 
float as long as possible, lifting off in the most delicate man- 
ner, because these glut rises are always of short duration 

never more than thirty minutes. When the glut rise ends, 
It is useless to continue fishing, they are full of food for 
the time, and will not respond to your efforts, so move to 
another place, perhaps to luckily find another insect glut. 
For those large solitary fish, generally browns or rainbows, 
that choose to haunt places just below submerged rocks, the 
floating fly is most effective, and if you can, get within fifteen 
feet to make short casts to just above the rock, so that the 
fly will float down along the edge of rapid water, you are 
bound to get a quick response. 

In easily waded little rivers like the Willowemoe at 
De Bruce, where trout average half a pound or under, dry 
fly fishing is comparatively simple by wading up the middle 
of the stream. One great objection to it is by using small 
dry flies most of the time you are catching so many under- 
sized fish. Similar conditions to worm fishing, except your 
method is superior. 

17 



Fishing Where Trout Are Not Rising 

Glut rises are not frequent. You will see isolated in- 
sects dropping to the surface almost any time, then periods 
occur when no insects are on the surface or in the air. These 
almost barren periods occur through April, after the 
middle of June, in July and August, with notable exceptions 
when a small rise of duns come up, mostly afternoons and 
evenings. All through May and the first half of June big 
rises occur every day, sometimes of several species at once. 

When barren periods occur, if you have some little 
knowledge of trout haunts, you can try to induce them up 
to the surface with a well cocked fly. Make a test at such 
places precisely as if casting to rising fish, with half a dozen 
casts at each place. The proper fly to choose is impossible 
to tell unless you have studied my book "Trout Stream 
Insects," which fully describes what time of day and period 
of season the various insects develop and rise to the surface. 

Without such a guide you can choose some fly that will 
imitate insects seen the day previous. Failing that make 
tests, and change your flies till trout do respond. Such tests 
will teach you more and be of greater service than if you 
pick out a fly from some "expert's" favorite list, which, if 
successful, is of no value in solving the problem. What is 
required is a systematic method acquired by your own 
practice. 

Cross Currents — Line Dragging 

The dry fly is so light that wind and current make it 
impossible, at times, to cast a long distance with any degree 
of accuracy. One current will force the fly down to you 
twice as rapidly as another current allows the heavy line to 
run, thus — to cause the line to belly out, forcing the fly from 
the course intended, to rapidly drown. In such cases, lift 
the line from the current, recast, if possible, a shorter line 
from another situation. There is no cure for a dragging 
line except to fish where the current assists instead of inter- 

18 



fering. On very windy days, it is far easier to fish down 
stream with wet flies, unless the wind is in your fav^or, 
blowing up stream. But winds are so changeable on winding 
mountain streams that the dry fly can be laid aside till Ideal 
weather returns. 

Dry and Wet Fishing Compared 

For many years much controversy has been wasted on 
the subject as to which method is best, and latterly as to 
its use by American anglers on their own streams. They 
are here compared now only to show the difference as to 
tackle and methods. More or less, about seventy-five per 
cent of American anglers fish the old style wet fly exclusively. 
More than half of them use indifferent tackle, flies and 
method. It is those I wish to reach to Inform them how- 
much they lose in their sport, and how easy it is to learn a 
superior style in the art of fishing. The other half, scat- 
tered over the northern zone, are doubtless all experts in 
the art of wet fishing, some of whom I know want the 
Information here given. 

Many dry anglers say they capture larger fish by that 
method than they do with wet flies. I am convinced by 
my own experience of dry fly fishing there is more real sport, 
a higher art, and the enjoyment in a better knowledge of 
animated nature to be seen along a trout stream. 

Dry fishing has several advantages over wet, the most 
Important are that trout leap more frequently, and you may 
observe trout take the fly, and the resistance is more apt 
to be near the surface. Your interest Is more keen when 
fishing with flies like the Insects you see, and in time you 
get to distinguish one from another. You also acquire a 
better knowledge of trout habits, ways of feeding, and 
where they lie in wait for insects, which are their principal 
diet. It Is indeed an interesting study to watch the transition 
from the creeper state, and the w^onderful development into 
the perfect Insect. 

The method of casting creates a desire for style and 
accuracy, drying the fly induces a more delicate handling 

19 



of the rod, and the finer tackle used makes it imperative 
you play the fish with the utmost caution and skill. 

On the other hand fishing wet has none of these finer 
qualities, nor is your interest aroused to such a degree in 
method or style. Wet fishing with several nondescript flies 
in mid or bottom water is just a chance game till the fish 
takes the fly. Very interesting, but it can be made doubly 
so, and should be improved by the adoption of several things 
— such as the tapered line and leader; snells tied to leaders 
by a knot instead of loops; by the use of flies copied from 
natural insects. 

Wet fishing has too many advantages to ignore it en- 
tirely, particularly in deep swift water, where the fario and 
irridius always attain their greatest size — invariably to 
haunt the deep pools utterly oblivious to the dry fly, rising 
to insects at rare intervals. Wet fishing down stream in 
shallow rapids has fruitful results, covering as you can with 
a long line the entire stream and both banks on wet or 
windy days. The best results attained in wet fishing are 
when you move a cast of flies rapidly through a runway, or 
permit it to travel along the water flow near the surface of 
the runway. The controversy has not been settled, many wet 
fishermen claim the wet method capture the most fish. But 
the capture of fish is of minor importance. The true sports- 
man angles for pleasure in the game, and he certainly gets 
more in the higher art of fishing with a dry fly. 



20 



HOW TO FISH THE NYMPH 




c::' 






The ISeiv Art of ISvmph Fishing on the Bottom for Trout 

Trout anglers will doubtless be pleased to learn of the 
latest up to the minute details of this new method as prac- 
tised by British anglers on their chalk streams. I have just 
learned from Mr. Sherrington, angling editor of the famous 
London Field, some facts concerning the new art of nymph 
fishing — a combination of dry and wet fishing that reaches 
up to the highest form in the angler's art — which I shall 
briefly describe what little is know^n, as yet. 

While our own outdoor magazines continue to beat the 
big drum about worms, plugs, bugs and hogskin, with pic- 
tures of trout and bass to prove their efficiency, they and 
their readers still remain utterly in the dark concerning the 
rapid strides now being made in the higher art of fly 
fishing. 

It must first be understood that British chalk streams 
are situated in the south of England, running between rich, 
fertile chalk hills that filter the water clear as crystal. These 
meadow streams are deep, slow moving, inducing a thick 
abundant growth of aquatic plants and weeds, which pro- 
vide a vast amount of trout food. The most famous streams 
are the Itchen, Test and Avon, all in the county of Hamp- 
shire, where most of the British expert trout anglers prac- 
tise dry fly fishing. 

American and Canadian trout streams are entirely differ- 
ent in character, being almost invariably rapid, usually shal- 
low, to run over stony or sandy beds, without aquatic 
growth. For that reason my own practice in nymph fishing 
for trout must of necessity be modified to meet American 

21 



trout stream conditions and the insects that breed in them. 
The discerning angler knows that the nymph is in a transi- 
tory state between the river bed creeper and the adult trout 
insect — known as "drakes." Each one of the millions that 
rise must ascend through midwater to the surface, during 
which time the alert trout gorge and feed on them in transit. 
They are wingless, with fat, luscious bodies, varied in size 
and color, according to the species, the greater part having 
a pale, yellowish tint, some quite pink and others black or 
dark gray. 

Drake creepers, indeed all aquatic insects, while in the 
creeper state are not available as food for trout because 
they are out of sight, burrowing in the mud or sandy bottom 
from three to eighteen inches deep below the water. 

Thus it is that nymphs of insects are hatched on the 
bottom throughout the trout season, and by their daily ap- 
pearance traveling through the water to the surface furnish 
abundant natural food just close to where trout abide, so 
that it is not at all surprising to find trout at different periods 
unresponsive to our dry flies cast on the surface, or even 
our wet flies played just under the surface. 

Trout are then feeding on these wingless nymphs, the 
winged artificial fly is not then attractive to trout. Such is 
the condition that this new art of nymph fishing has been 
developed to meet, and from my own tests I believe it will 
rapidly become a popular method with all the fly casters 
after they acquire the necessary skill and learn which nymph 
to use and the right way to play it. Anglers will learn more 
by their own practice than by precept, or anything described 
to them, outside the method and tools required. It is best 
to use dry fly tackle for nymph fishing, although you fish 
from the bottom up, at times the surface cast will get a rise. 

Wm. Mills & Son, New York, carries in stock several 
imported nymphs, one of which has a pink body that is said 
to have proved effective on our streams. The firm also has 
three of Louis Rhead's new correct imitations of the natural 
nymph found in Pennsylvania and Catskill streams. One, 
made in yellow, is in imitation of the gray drake creeper 

22 



and others of a similar color, but smaller in size. i\nother 
is a general tone of pink to imitate several insect creepers 
that have the body of a pink or red orange color. The 
third is in black and silver to imitate the creepers of the black 
dose, chocolate, marsh brown and other species with bodies 
dark in color, which are more abundant later in the season. 

Many anglers succeeded in getting trout on my yellow 
and black nymphs during the last three seasons; quite a few 
suggested a change from a long shank hook to a short one, 
same size as the No. 6 dry fly hook. Both long and short 
are good, according to depth of water, the short shank being 
best suited to shallow water. 

While testing the new nymphs late this fall I found It 
best to use a detachable weighted snell to have the nymph 
drop quickly to the bottom. Cut off an old fly from a loose 
snell and at the end fasten on a single bird shot, then fasten 
the snell to first knot of leader, about ten inches up. If the 
leader is bent into a position to allow the nymph to float 
away with water flow and the lead end of line on the bottom 
the position is right, with "lifts" very slow to the surface, 
then back, and repeated several times you get a fair Imitation 
of nymphs rising to the surface. Should it happen you see 
a rise or you wish to play the nymph dry fly fashion, you 
unsllp the leader snell loop ofl^ the leader, to leave the nymph 
at end of leader. 

I can predict a quick rise in popular esteem for nymph 
fishing at opening of the season. In place of the old style 
worm fishing. 

Nymph fishing at the bottom requires that you cast down 
stream, the best places being along runways, In about three 
or four feet of water — indeed, the deeper the water the 
chances are more favorable. Nymph creepers never abide 
in the shallows, especially if the water is swift; slow moving 
waters are the best places to make your casts, which need 
not be over twenty-five feet from you. 

23 



To play the nymph dry fly fashion you must cast up 
stream in similar situations. Wet fishermen unfamiliar with 
dry methods can learn it with very little practice as described 
in a previous chapter on casting. 

It has already been stated the nymph would quickly sup- 
plant the worm. It will do more than that — taking a dis- 
tinctly important part of the craft to enable you to get trout 
when neither flies nor worms will do so. For bottom fish- 
ing it is not necessary to use a single nymph on the leader — 
two or even four can be tied on at the same time, they should 
all be of different size and color, to do so you follow nature, 
which at times furnishes many species of creepers to appear 
simultaneously. 

Within the short period that I learned of the British 
method I have not had much opportunity to make con- 
clusive tests. Trout anglers themselves must take a hand 
to make the method perfect In this country, just as I endeavor 
to do. I can copy exactly from the natural creeper and insect 
a perfect artificial imitation, which should in particular be 
tested In Canadian and Maine waters where the largest trout 
are available. British nymphs are exceedingly small, far too 
small for my choice, and while I stated they are wingless — 
all are tied with a tiny pair of undeveloped wings about one- 
sixteenth of an inch that lie flat on the shoulder. 

The bodies are all thick and hairy — in fact, any of our 
popular flies with wings pulled off will make some sort of 
a nymph If the body Is fat and the hackle bushy. I am not 
as yet sure, but I surmise that the right method of fishing 
nymphs will prove more effective to get trout than any par- 
ticular kind of nymph — In other words, there Is little choice 
between them. The more Important thing Is to have the 
nymph wiggle slowly from the bottom up to the surface then 
back again. At the slightest touch made by the trout be 
alert to jerk the wrist quickly; the remaining work to be 
done is exactly like playing a fish on a fly. 

Every angler knows of the danger from sunken baits get- 
ting snagged in fishing the rough stony bed of our streams, 

24 



for that reason use very small shot placed one above the 
other, according to the force of the water. Such small shots 
on the leader are not considered dangerous by the trout. 
A large shot is bound to get fast between the stones to cause 
no end of trouble and loss of time. Water of medium force 
will carry a light lead along, sometimes floating it ten to 
fifteen inches from the bottom. In quiet pools, one shot is 
more than enough, and the "lifts" can be worked perfectly 
natural with the rod tip. 

Early in the season streams are usually very full, with 
strong currents, so that heavier sinkers are required. A 
good place to drop the lead is between tw^o eddies just below 
a half submerged rock, the favorite haunts of big browns 
and rainbows. For small brook trout of nine or ten inches 
that prefer the rifts and shallow, sw4ft waters, the lead should 
be allow^ed to run along fifty or more feet ahead, then 
worked from side to side reeling slowly backward. In such 
w^ater late this season I w^as very successful to hook several 
doubles by placing an extra small size trout helgramite at 
the end of leader with two nymphs placed above, fishing in 
much the same manner as the wet angler fishes his three 
flies. 

* In lakes where trout lie deep longer size nymphs are best 
— use three on the leader — first casting to likely places, then, 
with slightly heavier sinker, try very slow^ trolling so that 
the nymphs travel along as near the bottom as you can. 

The art of nymph fishing is not intended to replace fly 
fishing, but rather a change of method and new lures never 
before thought of, to entice trout only when they won't take 
flies. You will find it a most desirable substitute for that 
disagreeable and dirty habit of fishing with a worm. Don't 
imagine, brother angler, your worming companion' is going 
to do better than you. He will get catfish, eels, sunfish, 
perch and chubs, but you will get the trout. The worm 
fisher rarely succeeds better than the fly fisher who under- 
stands his methods fully and fishes with reasonable intelli- 
gence. Aside from that you are a far better sportsman 

25 



with flies or nymphs and your success with them is a personal 
achievement of real worth. 

To those anglers who are amateur or expert in the art 
of fly tying I would strongly advise them, study nymphs. 
Get a few for patterns and tie some for their own use. 
Nymphs are more easily made, and should they happen 
to construct several killers the triumph can be enjoyed with 
keen relish. 

My sole object in introducing this new lure is to furnish 
the more thoughtful angler with a subject that leads him to 
angling of a better sort, to follow it up in study of aquatic 
insects and most interesting study of trout food. The angler 
who fishes alone for fish has no conception what the real art 
of angling is or the personal delight the student of nature 
enjoys. 

Dry fly fishing created quite a rumpus among our anglers 
several years ago because it was something new, and really 
an advance in the art of angling. I have met quite a number 
of anglers on various streams this last few years, and the 
burden of their talk is mostly: "I fish nothing but the 
dry fly." "And do you succeed better than by the old wet 
style?" The answer is usually: "Well, yes, I get bigger 
fish and certainly have more fun in the game." All these 
answers correspond exactly with my own experience, though 
I don't entirely drop wet fishing or even artificial lure fish- 
ing. The artistic temperament requires a change now and 
then, especially in so uncertain a pastime as fishing for trout. 

As an example of the uncertainty mentioned, I was fish- 
ing at the end of this last May with two Brooklyn friends, 
father and son, in that splendid Beaverkill pool known as 
"Buck Eddy." While we were preparing to fish there came 
down a splendid rise of march browns, and the pool for 
fifty yards was soon a boiling mass of trout. The young 
fellow was so excited as to exclaim: "I'll bet there are five 
hundred fish jumping." There certainly were at least sev- 
enty trout from ten to eighteen inches long. 

Unfortunately I was that day fishing exclusively arti- 
ficial lures, and for the entire half hour of the rise I only 

26 



hooked one rainbow. My companions with wet flies hooked 
but one fish. Had we been provided with dry fly tackle 
and a dry march brown on the leader, fishing up the pool, 
it is possible we should have bagged six brace of fish each! 
I say "possible"— it might have been none at all. I have 
experienced these remarkable glut rises many times, es- 
pecially of the shad fly, and many times failed before I 
learned the art of fishing the dry fly. A nicely cocked march 
brown floatmg down alongside the natural insects surely 
does the trick, and I know the same things will happen with 
nymphs — when they, too, rise in great numbers. 

Bottom Lures For Trout 

Before concluding the subject of the nymph as a bottom 
bait perhaps trout anglers will be interested to know of sev- 
eral other new trout baits that I discovered and introduced 
which have already become favorite lures with a great 
many expert anglers fishing far Western streams, also in 
Canada and Maine. I allude to the httle trout helgramite, 
the caddis creeper, a tiny crawfish and cricket. With the 
exception of the cricket all are fished at the bottom, where 
the natural creatures they correctly imitate abide. 

Only within the last few weeks I came across an ex- 
tremely interesting article printed in the first "report" of the 
Fish and Game Commission of New York State, written by 
my old friend, the late Nelson A. Cheney, on "Natural Food 
of Trout." 

Every angler should read it, I'm sure they will have 
great benefit from its perusal. Among other things he men- 
tions : "While expert fishers have for centuries been de- 
voting all their energies to the fly alone as a lure for trout, 
they forgot, or perhaps were not aware of the many bottom 
creatures serving as food for trout that could be made of 
practical use either as natural baits or fair imitations of 
them." Strangely enough, he mentions two creepers that I 
have since made artificial imitators of that have proved 
effective lures, without my knowing of his suggestions. The 
most popular of these trout lures is the little trout helgramite, 

21 



the creeper of a species of stone fly. It furnishes consider- 
able food for brook trout in the early spring while creeping 
along over the pebbles from midstream to the shore, where 
it crawls up stones or vegetation to change into the winged 
insect. Not only have I caught on it the three trout 
species, rainbows, browns and natives, but many other fish 
take it^chub, dace, perch, bass, pickerel and even eels. 

All this goes to show that heretofore by confining our 
efforts to the surface, or near to it, with flies, minnows and 
worms, we missed, we entirely ignored, the very situation 
where trout habitually lie, viz., the bottom, only at times 
darting upward for surface food and immediately returning 
to the bottom. It is therefore apparent that we should 
modify our fishing, and each individual angler should en- 
deavor to develop methods to place before the trout a lure, 
natural or artificial, like that upon which it is then feeding. 
If you play the lure with a fair degree of skill where trout 
lie you are bound to capture it, especially so at seasons when 
trout won't take flies. 

Personally I much prefer fly fishing, dry and wet, and 
if I cannot do that I most certainly won't dig worms. Such 
business can be left for the young kiddies, who are aware 
of nothing better. In past years I have lost a good deal of 
sport, many a time when trout were amiably inclined. I 
have forced myself from the fun of catching them to sit by 
the riverside to make drawings of the particular food they 
were eating. I am now and shall in the future get the 
reward for my patience in the extra pleasure of fishing a 
new and better style, and much better results. I also ardently 
desire that other anglers shall share in it — by making and 
using their own lures and baits in a sane and rational 
manner. 

This August I was fishing with a young friend in rather 
wild water in the lower Beaverkill for bass with very poor luck. 
Whether the bass had gone back to the Delaware or what- 
ever the cause, we got no fish. In casting out to a swift run- 
way my friend hooked a nice large fish. After considerable 
play, both in and out of the water, he shouted across, "It's 

28 



a rainbow." "What lure?" I asked. He replied, "A little 
artificial crawfish." I was sure he would land the trout 
because the bait had a good, stout sneck hook to hold. 

This success gave me considerable pleasure because the 
lure was made for bass, and the capture of a good sized 
rainbow was a feat of additional satisfaction, having pre- 
viously captured the bass on the same little bait. The craw- 
fish was allowed to go anywhere with the water flow and, 
passing over the fish, possibly near the bottom, it succeeded 
where a cast of flies would have surely failed. I mention 
this as one of many instances to prove how important bot- 
tom fishing is to furnish sport when results are poor under 
ordinary fly fishing methods. 

Fishing conditions in England are so different from our 
own we cannot always adapt their new ideas and sugges- 
tions as to methods, although I am conscious of the fact 
they have always been ahead of other countries in the fine 
art of fishing — indeed, almost every outdoor sport. In the 
problem of scientific study of new methods to advance the 
art of angling they are pioneers in the right direction that 
calls forth our respectful attention. 

To recapitulate the chief points. I want to see anglers 
getting as much sport and fish on the bottom as they 
do by fishing the surface. To make their trips not so much 
fishing for fish as fishing for pleasure, by including a study 
of fish food, fish habits and general nature research along 
a trout stream. To capture and land many fish all the time 
would become wearisome, especially small fish, but you can 
take a just pride in making with your own hands an artificial 
copy of the food trout eat and with it deceive and capture 
the wary, adroit antagonist, which is something worth while. 

One great advantage in fishing these bottom lures is that 
you are more sure to get the large sized fish than small 
ones, and the method is so easy and simple as to make your 
day's fishing a delightful experience, and more often a fuller 
creel of trout. 

Several letters have been received from anglers who 
have difficulties to get trout in the waters they fish, and they 

29 



think nymph fishing will exactly solve the problem. The 
same difficulty is everywhere apparent, and in Catskill 
streams, like Esopus and Beaverkill, there are pools I know 
for certain contain many large fish; there were times when 
the devil himself seemed to have a hand in preventing every 
angler, expert or duffer, from getting even a "sign" of a 
trout. I know a Scotch angler, a splendid fly caster, whom 
I met on the stream fishing a gob of worms nearly as large 
as his fist. "Bob," said I, "what on earth are you trying 
to get?" His reply was, "I'm sick of casting flies, which 
I've stuck in my hat, and I hope to choke them with meat." 
Just to tease him, from across the stream I held up two nice 
fish from my creel, which made him yell across, "Oh, go 
to that region where they don't have to use coal." 

Just a final word concerning the rig for nymphs. Be 
sure to use a nice tapered leader with the nymphs tied neatly, 
and it is far better to have any number of very small shot 
than one or two large sinkers — for two reasons, the large 
sinker gets fouled in the pebbles and scares the fish. Try 
to place the nymph where you think trout lie; don't let it 
stay in one place; lift it slowly up several times; then move 
to another situation. If trout do not take the nymph after 
two or three lifts they are either not inclined or are not 
there. Use small sized nymphs early in the season, either 
pink, yellow or any light color. Early in May the larger 
size yellow or dark color should be tried. One of my corre- 
spondents writes: "I would rather fish the nymph up 
stream because I can get much nearer the trout — in fact, I 
could drop it nicely nine feet ahead right over the trout's 
nose." 

Personally I like best to wade right down stream cast- 
ing forward to each bank, then lead the nymph in slow 
moves toward the middle. In slow running river deep pools 
a light float will assist in carrying the nymph along the bot- 
tom, where you cannot always wade or reach in casting. 
The float keeps up the line, especially in lake fishing. Of 
course, it is important to have the float adjusted to the right 
depth of water, viz., the nymph to be from six to twelve 

30 



inches from the bed of the water. Chuck out for good the 
dirty worm and make a trial of a better style — that is, bot- 
tom fishing with nymphs and other lures. 




Natural Drake Fly 



Natural Dun Fly 




Natural Nymph Creeper 
31 



DRY FLY EQUIPMENT 

RODS ^' ^' Leonard Tournament Catskill Fly Rod, 8 feet long, 3^ 
to 3^ ounces, is a model very much favored by expert American 
dry fly anglers; it is plenty strong and powerful enough for the general 
run of stream angling. 

The H. L. Leonard Tournament Fly Rod, 9 feet, 4^^ to 4^ ounces, 
is an old favorite and is particularly suitable for large stream and lake 
fishing; it is used extensively in England and France by dry fly anglers. 

William Mills & Sons' "Standard" Fly Rod, 9 feet long, 5 ounces, is 
a serviceable dry fly rod; also the 8 feet rod, weighing 4J^ ounces, is 
suitable for this style of angling. 

"Nonpareil" Rod, 9 feet long, 5^ ounces, and also the 8 feet, 4^ 
ounce rod, are suitable for dry fly work. 

"Peerless" Rod, 9 feet, S^/^ ounces, or 8 feet, 4^^ ounces. 

"Paragon" Rod, 9 feet, 5-}4 ounces, or 8 feet, 4^ ounces. 

The above list includes rods of all grades, from the best at $50 each 
to the cheapest grade that will do satisfactory work at $9.50 each. 
REELS ^L L. Leonard style, 3 or 354 inches diameter. 

William Mills & Sons' "Kennett," an English type reel with 
revolving plate, made of aluminum. 

"Neversink" Reel, rubber and nickel silver. 

"Cresco" Reel, an American made revolving plate reel. 

All the above reels are made in the narrow style that allows quick 
winding of line; prices from $25.00 to $6.50 each. 

I INF ^^ '^^ ^^^y necessary, to be successful in fly casting, that your line 
be of proper weight to balance your rod. If, when ordering line, 
you specify the make and weight of rod, we can furnish line suitable 
for it. 

For rods weighing from 3^ to 4^ ounces the proper lines to use are 
E tapered and F level. 

For rods weighing from 4^ to 5}i ounces the proper lines to use are 
E or D tapered or E level. 

In making short casts such as are used in this style of fishing, you 
need a line one size larger than ordinarily used on your rod for the down 
stream fishing, as the shortness of line out makes it imperative, in 
order to get the rod to cast properly, that the line should be heavy, 

William Mills & Sons' "Intrinsic" or soft finish lines run in price 
from $7.00 to $9.00; their "Imperial" or harder finish line runs from 
$3.00 to $5.00 in price. 

IFADFR ^^^^ leader used should be about 7^/2 feet long, heavy at the 
L.t.AUL.K. jjj^g gj^j ^^^ tapered quickly to light at the fly end. It is 
usual in this style of fishing to use only one fly, but for those who desire 
it we have dry fly leaders tied with a piece of gut to use for dropper fly. 
The best grade dry flies are invariably tied on eyed hooks and 
FLIES not on gut. 

. ppp„^-^p-p« The dry fly fisher requires a bottle of "Floatine" in 
ACCt^iUKltJ) Qj-jgj. ^^j make his flies float properly in quick-running 
water, and it is also desirable to have an atomizer with which to spray 
the flies, so as not to ruffle the wings or hackles. A gut cutter or pair of 
scissors is also most necessary because, in changing the fly the gut is cut 
and another fly tied on. 

"Mucilin" for making line float and line greaser for applying same. 



H132 78 567 

































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